*, *::before, *::after { margin: 0; padding: 0; box-sizing: border-box; }

:root {
  --paper: #F6F3EE;
  --linen: #EDE7DD;
  --sand: #DCD3C5;
  --line: #D9D1C4;
  --ink: #22211E;
  --ink-soft: #57534B;
  --oak: #A1835F;
  --oak-ink: #7A5F3F;
  --night: #1F1E1B;
  --night-line: #3A3833;
  --night-soft: #B9B2A6;
  --serif: 'Newsreader', 'Newsreader Fallback', 'Iowan Old Style', Georgia, serif;
  --sans: 'Schibsted Grotesk', 'Schibsted Fallback', -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', sans-serif;
  --gutter: clamp(16px, 4vw, 48px);
  --max: 1280px;
  --prose: 720px;
  --radius: 2px;
  --ease: cubic-bezier(0.22, 1, 0.36, 1);
}

html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  font-family: var(--sans); font-size: 17px; line-height: 1.7; color: var(--ink); background: var(--paper);
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; -moz-osx-font-smoothing: grayscale; text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
}
img { display: block; max-width: 100%; height: auto; }
a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
ul, ol { list-style: none; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--oak); outline-offset: 3px; }
.container { width: 100%; max-width: var(--max); margin-inline: auto; padding-inline: var(--gutter); }
.skip { position: absolute; left: 16px; top: -60px; z-index: 100; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); padding: 10px 16px; }
.skip:focus { top: 12px; }

h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 300; letter-spacing: -0.02em; line-height: 1.1; text-wrap: balance; }
em { font-style: italic; color: var(--oak-ink); }
p { text-wrap: pretty; }

.btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: 12px; min-height: 52px; padding: 0 26px;
  font-size: 0.95rem; font-weight: 500; border-radius: var(--radius);
  transition: background-color 0.3s var(--ease), color 0.3s var(--ease), border-color 0.3s var(--ease);
}
.btn svg { width: 16px; height: 16px; flex-shrink: 0; }
.btn-primary { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.btn-primary:hover { background: #3A372F; }
.btn-light { background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-light:hover { background: var(--linen); }
.btn-ghost-light { border: 1px solid var(--night-line); color: var(--paper); }
.btn-ghost-light:hover { border-color: var(--paper); }

/* Header */
.site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 50; background: rgba(246, 243, 238, 0.9); backdrop-filter: saturate(1.4) blur(14px); -webkit-backdrop-filter: saturate(1.4) blur(14px); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.header-inner { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 24px; min-height: 72px; }
.logo img { height: 28px; width: auto; }
.header-nav { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 28px; font-size: 0.94rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.header-nav a:not(.btn):hover { color: var(--ink); }
.header-nav .btn { min-height: 44px; padding: 0 20px; font-size: 0.9rem; color: var(--paper); }

/* Article */
.crumbs { padding-top: clamp(28px, 4vw, 48px); font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.crumbs ol { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; }
.crumbs li + li::before { content: "/"; margin-right: 8px; color: var(--sand); }
.crumbs a:hover { color: var(--ink); }

.article-top { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; gap: clamp(32px, 5vw, 72px); align-items: center; padding-block: clamp(24px, 3vw, 40px) clamp(8px, 2vw, 24px); }
.article-head { max-width: 900px; }
.kicker { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; font-size: 0.78rem; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--oak-ink); margin-bottom: 20px; }
.kicker::before { content: ""; width: 28px; height: 1px; background: currentColor; }
.article-head h1 { font-size: clamp(2.3rem, 1.4rem + 3.6vw, 4.4rem); line-height: 1.02; letter-spacing: -0.03em; margin-bottom: 24px; }
.article-lead { font-size: clamp(1.08rem, 1rem + 0.35vw, 1.25rem); color: var(--ink-soft); max-width: 60ch; }
.article-meta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px 20px; margin-top: 24px; font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }

.article-hero { overflow: hidden; border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--linen); }
.article-hero img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 5 / 4; object-fit: cover; }
.article-hero figcaption { padding: 10px 0 0; font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--ink-soft); background: var(--paper); }

.review { margin: 2em 0; padding: 28px; background: var(--linen); border-radius: var(--radius); }
.review blockquote { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.3rem; line-height: 1.45; }
.review figcaption { margin-top: 12px; font-size: 0.9rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.params { display: grid; grid-template-columns: max-content 1fr; gap: 8px 24px; }
.params dt { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.92rem; }
.params dd a { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--oak); }
.photo-grid { columns: 3 280px; column-gap: 16px; padding-bottom: clamp(56px, 8vw, 96px); }
.photo-grid a { display: block; margin-bottom: 16px; break-inside: avoid; overflow: hidden; border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--linen); }
.photo-grid img { width: 100%; transition: transform 0.9s var(--ease); }
.photo-grid a:hover img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.posts-2 { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
.gallery-mini { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 16px; }
.gallery-mini figure { margin: 0; }

.article-body { max-width: var(--prose); margin-inline: auto; padding-block: clamp(40px, 6vw, 72px); }
.summary { background: var(--linen); border-left: 2px solid var(--oak); padding: 24px 28px; margin-bottom: 48px; border-radius: var(--radius); }
.summary h2 { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: 0.8rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--oak-ink); margin: 0 0 12px; }
.summary ul { display: grid; gap: 8px; }
.summary li { position: relative; padding-left: 20px; }
.summary li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0.85em; width: 8px; height: 1px; background: var(--oak); }

.prose > * + * { margin-top: 1.1em; }
.prose h2 { font-size: clamp(1.75rem, 1.4rem + 1.3vw, 2.4rem); margin-top: 2.2em; }
.prose h3 { font-size: 1.4rem; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.01em; margin-top: 1.8em; }
.prose h2 + *, .prose h3 + * { margin-top: 0.7em; }
.prose a { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--oak); }
.prose a:hover { color: var(--oak-ink); }
.prose strong { font-weight: 600; }
.prose ul, .prose ol { display: grid; gap: 8px; }
.prose ul li { position: relative; padding-left: 22px; }
.prose ul li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0.85em; width: 10px; height: 1px; background: var(--oak); }
.prose ol { counter-reset: n; }
.prose ol li { position: relative; padding-left: 34px; counter-increment: n; }
.prose ol li::before { content: counter(n); position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; color: var(--oak-ink); }
.prose .table-wrap { overflow-x: auto; }
.prose table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 0.95rem; }
.prose th, .prose td { text-align: left; padding: 12px 14px 12px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; }
.prose th { font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.85rem; letter-spacing: 0.02em; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.prose .tip { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 20px 24px; border-radius: var(--radius); }
.prose .tip strong:first-child { display: block; font-size: 0.8rem; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--oak-ink); margin-bottom: 6px; }
.prose figure img { border-radius: var(--radius); width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.prose figcaption { margin-top: 10px; font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }

.faq { margin-top: 64px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.faq > h2 { font-size: clamp(1.75rem, 1.4rem + 1.3vw, 2.4rem); padding: 40px 0 16px; }
.faq details { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.faq summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 24px; padding: 22px 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.3rem; line-height: 1.3; }
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.faq summary::after { content: "+"; font-family: var(--sans); font-weight: 300; font-size: 1.5rem; line-height: 1; color: var(--oak-ink); }
.faq details[open] summary::after { content: "–"; }
.faq details p { padding: 0 0 24px; color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* CTA */
.cta { background: var(--night); color: var(--paper); padding-block: clamp(56px, 8vw, 104px); }
.cta-inner { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; gap: 40px; align-items: end; }
.cta h2 { font-size: clamp(2rem, 1.3rem + 2.6vw, 3.4rem); }
.cta h2 em { color: var(--oak); }
.cta p { color: var(--night-soft); margin-top: 18px; max-width: 48ch; }
.cta-actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; justify-content: flex-end; }

/* Related & listing */
.related { padding-block: clamp(56px, 8vw, 104px); }
.related h2 { font-size: clamp(1.9rem, 1.4rem + 1.8vw, 2.8rem); margin-bottom: 40px; }
.posts { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 48px 32px; }
.post { display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.post-img { overflow: hidden; border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--linen); margin-bottom: 20px; }
.post-img img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 0.9s var(--ease); }
.post:hover .post-img img { transform: scale(1.035); }
.post .post-cat { font-size: 0.78rem; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--oak-ink); }
.post h3 { font-size: 1.45rem; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.01em; line-height: 1.2; margin: 8px 0 10px; }
.post p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.95rem; }

.hub-head { padding-block: clamp(32px, 5vw, 64px) clamp(40px, 5vw, 64px); max-width: 900px; }
.hub-head h1 { font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 1.4rem + 4.4vw, 5rem); line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -0.03em; margin-bottom: 24px; }
.hub-section { padding-bottom: clamp(56px, 8vw, 96px); }
.hub-section > h2 { font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 1.3rem + 1vw, 2.2rem); padding-top: 32px; margin-bottom: 32px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.place-list { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 16px; }
.place-list a { display: block; padding: 22px 24px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); transition: border-color 0.25s var(--ease), background-color 0.25s var(--ease); }
.place-list a:hover { border-color: var(--ink); background: var(--linen); }
.place-list b { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.3rem; }
.place-list span { font-size: 0.88rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* Footer */
.footer { padding-block: 56px 40px; }
.footer-top { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 32px; flex-wrap: wrap; padding-bottom: 32px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.footer-top .logo img { height: 24px; }
.footer-links { display: flex; gap: 24px; flex-wrap: wrap; font-size: 0.92rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.footer-links a:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.footer-bottom { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; flex-wrap: wrap; padding-top: 24px; font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.footer-bottom a:hover { color: var(--ink); }

@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .header-nav a:not(.btn) { display: none; }
  .article-top { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .article-hero { max-width: 560px; }
  .posts { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .cta-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .cta-actions { justify-content: flex-start; }
  .place-list { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
}
@media (max-width: 640px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .header-nav .btn { padding: 0 16px; }
  .article-hero img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; }
  .posts, .posts-2, .place-list { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .params { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 2px; }
  .params dd { margin-bottom: 10px; }
  .summary { padding: 20px; }
  .footer-top { flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-start; }
}
.article-hero--shot { background: #fff; border: 1px solid var(--line); padding: clamp(12px, 2vw, 20px); }
.article-hero--shot img { aspect-ratio: auto; object-fit: contain; max-width: 584px; margin-inline: auto; }
.prose figure.shot { margin: 1.6em 0; }
.prose figure.shot img { aspect-ratio: auto; object-fit: contain; width: auto; max-width: 100%; height: auto; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: #fff; padding: 12px; }
.prose figure.shot figcaption { margin-top: 10px; font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }